Fascinating Filipina: Apo Whang-Od

The Legendary Master of Kalinga Tattooing

Born in 1917, Maria Oggay, globally renowned as Apo Whang-Od, hails from the mist-veiled village of Buscalan, nestled amidst the rice terraces of Kalinga province in the northern Philippines. She has dedicated over a century to the sacred tradition of batok tattooing in her remote mountain hut, accepting devotees who travel 12 hours on winding roads to reach her. Whang-Od was thrust into the spotlight when American anthropologist Lars Krutak featured her in the 2007 documentary "The Last Tattooed Women of Kalinga." Now at the age of 106, she stands as the last 'mambabatok', tirelessly preserving this ancient art form by adorning visitors with her swift and steady hands.

The Vanishing Art of Traditional Batok Tattooing

Using hand-carved fig tree thorns, charcoal and rice wine, Whang-Od taps intricate patterns while chanting in Kalinga, her native dialect. In Kalinga culture, men earned tattoos after achieving significant feats in battle, while women received tattoos bearing sacred fertility symbols. However, the arrival of American missionaries in the early 1900s demonized body modification, nearly extinguishing this revered ritual. Undaunted, Whang-Od continued to practice and preserve the batok tradition, creating tattoos at a remarkable rate of 100 taps per minute. Today, despite her diminishing eyesight, she diligently imparts her specialised knowledge to her grandnieces, Grace Palicas and Elyang Wigan, ensuring the continuity of Kalinga's rich cultural legacy.

Redefining Beauty in the Modern Age

By featuring Whang-Od on its April 2023 cover, Vogue Philippines has spotlighted a visionary who upholds the enduring imprint of indigenous culture often drowned out by Westernisation. Whang-Od's presence glorifies the timeless allure of traditional practices and redefines mainstream beauty standards as encompassing wisdom and passion. The magazine's Editor-in-Chief, Bea Valdes, was inspired by Whang-Od to celebrate Filipino heritage by honouring a living conduit of history over fleeting modern ideals. Whang-Od's life story underscores the notion that integrity transcends trends and deserves recognition at any age.